You could camp anywhere in America but Lilly Pad Obed is special. Central to the Obed Wild & Scenic River, the primitive campground is a favorite for climbers who consider the sandstone boulders and cliffs the ultimate playground. The primitive campsite is a generous $5 a night, complete with a brewery on-site. Lilly Pad Obed is also within the park’s International Dark Sky designation that allows a broad scope of stars after the sun has set. 

I had previously camped during the solar eclipse but was happy to be back without the crowds that it drew. The laid back campsite is peaceful and home to Big, the large gentle dog who roams the grounds looking for belly rubs and a nice shady spot to hang out in.

During the summer, the woods can feel almost tropical with the Southern fauna that permeates the trees and footpaths. It never feels like we’ve been able to see enough or fully absorb the magical qualities of the area. At the same time, the promise of future exploring never gets old.

Last weekend I went camping in East Tennessee near the Obed Wild & Scenic River area. This area is both designated as a Wild & Scenic River and a designated as an International Dark Sky Park. It was pretty warm out so we opted for some shorter hiking so we still had plenty time for swimming. We went on the short but scenic Boulder Trail which leads to an area known as Boulder Field. This is a favorite area for rock climbers due to the unique sandstone rock formed from ancient seas. As the sun was coming in harshly through our hike, I opted to fully edit our photos in black and white for a better look at the detail and unique foliage of the area.

The cabin we stayed at in Shawnee National Forest was a short drive from Garden of the Gods. The large boulders and hoodoos were formed from eroded sandstone by water in ancient times leaving an amazing outlook over the vast wilderness below. 

We watched the sunset here both nights of the weekend from the calm and windy bluffs. It’s a short walk to the overlook area but there’s a lot to climb on and explore. It had been about 10 years since I had been to Garden of the Gods and it was even more majestic than I remembered.

I would note that caution should be taken near the windy cliff edges, particularly if you have kids or it’s slippery out.

You could easily spend the whole day hiking and swimming at Bell Smith Springs. The trails all center from the bottom of steep stone staircase that descends into the canyon. We took the shorter trails on this warm day, opting for the Natural Bridge Trail loop to the left and then to the white trail to the right. This is the main trail but it didn’t seem to have a name. At one point the trail splits and to the right is a short section that leads to the Devil’s Backbone. To the left, the trail leads to the spring area with a rocky party beach of sorts.

We saw some cliff diving in the beach area but it didn’t look advisable as the water didn’t look nearly deep enough for the cliff height. We were happy to see some dogs sunbathing and likely getting in their first swims of the year though. Since we had just hiked a bit, we took a dip in the cold water to cool off but didn’t stay long. I would caution that we each pulled a tick off after this swim which isn’t surprising this time of year but definitely something to triple check after spending time in Shawnee. 

I loved checking out the natural rock bridge which the USDA page tells me is 125 feet with an arch of 30 feet. To the right of the trail just after the bridge is a shortcut down the side using a metal rung ladder. I’m great at climbing up things but am more cat like when it comes to going back down. I skipped this part but it seemed like it would let you get a little closer to the underside of the bridge. Maybe next time I’ll check it. I was happy to skip the ladder though as the trail opened up to a beautiful sandstone area with sparse trees after before heading back into the forest trail. 

I can’t speak for the other trails but I wouldn’t consider the yellow trail moderate or difficult as some of the guides suggest. The steepest part is really at the end of the day when you have to make your way back up the stone staircase. If I came back in the fall, I would definitely check out the longer trails.